How do you tint those windows that are comprised of many many small, tile-like glass pieces? A “glass tile wall,” essentially.
Answer 1: Don’t bother. Many tinters have tried these types of windows only to promise themselves that they’d never do it ever again. It is considered a waste of time. If you are going to attempt this, make sure that you take into account all the time it will take, and charge accordingly. Answer […]
Answer 1: Never use automotive film on flat glass. Answer 2: The glass can blow out if you use the wrong kind of film on flat glass. Answer 3: Breakage isn’t the only reason you shouldn’t use automotive film on flat glass, and there are many other issues that can arise from this. […]
Answer 1: Pulling the vertical seals will greatly improve the overall finished product. This allows you to line up the top edge and trip the bottom edge. Remember to avoid accidentally trimming the rubber. You may need to trim the bottom edge first to avoid this. Afterward, trim like you would a normal window. […]
Answer 1: Some people use exterior screens to avoid this issue. Answer 2: It may be your choice of film. Many ceramic films may reduce reflected heat considerably. Answer 3: In many cases, reflection from windows melts siding even before any tinting has taken place. There are certain kinds of window film that […]
Answer 1: Replace the glass. Lamination failure between the panes cannot be addressed any other way. Answer 2: The lamination may be failing slowly. If this is the case, it may be safe to tint the surface, but understand that the lamination will eventually fail completely and the window will need to be […]
Method 1: Blast resistant film has to be somewhere between 7 and 15 mils. It depends on the power of the blast, the glass thickness, the frame, and the way the frame is anchored. Blast resistant film might not make much of a difference if the frame has a weak anchoring system.
Method 1: If you want a prison-style one-way mirror in a room, you need to make sure that the “viewing” side of the glass (The side of the glass that you want to be see-through) is darker than the “mirror” side of the glass. You need to be able to apply the film on the […]
Method 1: The fact that the glass is tempered likely has nothing to do with seal failure. The fact that it’s tinted may also have nothing to do with the failure of the seal. It could simply be that the IG wasn’t built properly, potentially with a single seal instead of a double seal. Whether […]
Method 1: When installing film on laminated glass, it’s important to get as much information as possible about the glass, otherwise it can be a gamble. If you don’t see any obvious marks or labels, then you can usually assume it’s annealed glass. You would then choose a film that would be safe enough for […]
Method 1: If a skylight is untintable (perhaps because it’s a dome made of plexiglass) there are other alternatives. One possibility is to put an inner frame below the skylight, and use acrylic or polycarbonate and just lay the film between it and the skylight. You can tack it in place on each corner with […]
Method 1: If you’re in a situation where you’re thoroughly spraying and squeegeeing a surface before laying your film down only to see tiny specks appear later, it could be that the specks are running out from the gaskets. This often happens from the top edge as gravity pushes out debris made loose from your […]
Method 1: You may apply tint film to Low-E glass, but it will negate the ability of the coating to reflect FIR back into the room. If you have to apply film to Low-E glass, keep in mind that the coating is very sensitive and will probably scratch if you try to scrape it clean […]
Method 1: There isn’t a concrete consensus on which is better, it just depends on preference. Baby shampoo contains glycerin, and dish detergent is higher in PH which can make a difference depending on which type of adhesive or film is being used.
Method 1: Soap stains can be avoided in the first place by proper rinsing techniques. But if you are still left with soap stains after a tint job, let it completely dry for at least a half-hour. Then spray it with water and dry it off with a microfiber towel.
Method 1: Graffiti or security film is usually tough enough to protect against animal claw. Depending on how sharp the animal’s claws are and how strong they are, you should be able to get at least two years out of the film without any visible marks.
Method 1: If you used the appropriate film for a dual-paned window, the thermal crack may not be your fault. Instead, the fractures may be because of a slight chip or nick in the glass that weakens it. Thermal fractures usually ‘meander’ through the glass in multiple directions. If the crack is in a straight […]
Method 1: If 1 or 2% VLT isn’t dark enough for you, for example on a garage with valuable things inside, there isn’t really any tint film that is completely impervious to some sort of light. Even on the darkest, most reflective tint, it’s still possible to look through the glass if someone really wants […]
Method 1: A lot of tinters will simply walk away from these jobs because of safety concerns. Once glass gets into the 80×100 range, it can be really dangerous to remove film from. It’s just not worth it. Advising that the glass be replaced completely is usually preferable to removing and replacing film. If […]
Method 1: Clients should be advised beforehand that these types of windows have their limitations. If the edge of a frame is very uneven, it’s not always possible to avoid light gaps. Generally speaking, the best approach is to cut around the putty’d edge first, and then scrape the glass all the way to […]
Method 1: If glass has a coating on it that gives it a slight hue underneath the film, it shouldn’t make a difference in tinting. However, if you have you retint it, this process can be tricky because it will be nearly impossible to remove the film and adhesive without damaging the coating as well. […]
Method 1: Tempered, single-paned windows aren’t as susceptible to heat as dual-paned windows, so you can ostensibly use any film that meets your needs. For simple heat rejection, a nice ceramic film with a low VLT percentage will keep the room cooler. Conversely, if you’re more concerned about light, then you can opt for a […]
Method 1: You’ll have to inspect the gaskets and then decide whether it’s worth it to try and pull them. Pulling the gaskets and then putting them back will result in better elimination of light gaps and will give you better-looking edges, but can also be risky if they are old and brittle. If the […]
Method 1: It is very difficult to find tint wider than 84 inches. If you ever have to use a piece that big, understand that there are much bigger risks in glass failure and overheating. Make sure you have the correct tint level. There isn’t always an obvious place to put your seam or […]
Method 1: The general ballpark that most tinters charge for removing old tint is somewhere between $2.00 and $3.00 depending on how old, dirty, and difficult it will be to remove. If you’re not significantly experienced in tint removal and can’t gauge it just by looking at it or feeling it, you can usually […]
Method 1: Precutting is a matter of debate. Some tinters think that you can’t achieve a professional level of quality when precutting compared to trimming on the window. Other tinters believe it’s possible with proper measuring and saves time. Other tinters are somewhere in the middle, and they will line up one or two factory […]
Method 1: In high elevation areas that experience a lot of wind, like a high-rise on a beach in a windy area, glass breaking under wind pressure is a risk. This can cause a lot of damage and is also obviously expensive. As a way to “anchor” glass in place, tint film can be reinforced […]
Method 1: Tinting skylights can either be a very lucrative business tactic or a very big time and money waster – depending on how you contract. Because of their exposure to the elements, skylight tint tends to have a much shorter lifespan than regular windows. This means that contractors need to adjust their warranties on […]
Method 1: The best tool for this job is a film handler. If you don’t have one, you can protect the film from dust by laying down a very clean tarp over top. Next, cut the film over a straight edge placed on top of the tarp. Method 2: For smaller jobs, it may […]
Method 1: Generally speaking, trying to tint over any non-smooth surface is a losing game. Even if you manage to pull it off, film with high heat absorption will ruin textured glass. There is one way around this: Instead of trying to tint the textured glass, add your own layer of cheap 1/8th glass directly […]
Method 1: If you can’t find anyone to help you install a big piece of dusted crystal, try hanging the film somewhere near the window you’re working on and strip the liner. Then fold it in half from the bottom to the top, making the film 50% smaller. By holding the piece by the top […]
Method 1: If you are tinting a glass door in a high traffic area such as an industrial warehouse, or a door that requires a lot of heavy equipment moving through, it is possible to minimize scratches if the customer requests it. Tint the glass as normal, and then you can go over it as […]
Method 1: For a freezer that will be in the sun, you can protect what’s inside by using a dark silver reflective film with anti-graffiti film on top. However, this won’t allow great visibility. Visibility may be important if it’s important to see what’s inside, such as a storefront freezer that showcases cakes or frozen […]
Method 1: It is possible that there was a film malfunction, or the wrong film was installed. If the window in question has film on it that absorbs more heat than the glass can handle, then it can shatter eventually. But if that were the case, then all panes would be broken, not just one. […]
Method 1: Storm windows are absolutely tintable and are compatible with the same tint films as non-storm windows. Tinting them is often easier than tinting regular windows because you don’t have to deal with dual pane safe film. Like other windows, tint storm windows on the interior.
Method 1: Antique, single-paned glass windows are extremely susceptible to breakage, especially during install. American experts believe that the thinner the single pane glass, the more susceptible it is to heat breakage, but Europeans believe the opposite. The main danger is putting too much pressure on it during install and shattering the entire thing. Many […]
Method 1: If the texture inside the bevel is slightly different, for example frosted, you may be better off not tinting on it at all and just running the film right along the beginning of the bevel to the ridge. Using CDF adhesive film, you can get the film to stick down but the corners […]
Method 1: If you are in a hot climate where you’re forced to use air conditioning to make your home, office, or business comparatively very cold, you will most likely experience condensation. The more drastic the difference in temperature is between the inside and the outside, the more difficult it will be to prevent. […]
Method 1: Laminated glass should have a stamp or marker on all 4 corners. If the stamp has been worn off or isn’t there, you can also try tapping a coin or piece of metal on it. Laminated glass has a dull, matted sound whereas tempered glass will have a higher pitched “ping.” (Keep in […]
Method 1: It depends on the amount of light on the inside compared to the outside. If there is a lot of light inside, for example, a well-lit office space, this will be very hard to make invisible to the outside if the outside is a darker area without any exposure to sunlight. It will […]
Method 1: A common problem people have when tinting sunrooms with plants is that the plants will die afterward due to lack of visible light. A blockage of UV rays is okay, but a lack of visible light will cause them to suffer. Films that have a VLT of 29% or more shouldn’t present any […]
Method 1: Line up the top edge of the film with the highest point of the arch, and then tack it down. Then cut from the middle outwards. Pull the liner off afterward. Arched window glass is usually not tempered, so make sure you are using the right film for the glass you are installing […]
Method 1: There is no real difference between the slip solution used on flat glass compared to auto glass. Baby shampoo or other name brands work great.
Method 1: Sometimes no matter what you do, traffic lights, streetlights, and car lights will look a little blurry through the new tint film. This usually happens with thicker films and uneven glass because it’s harder for the light to pass through in a straight line. It tends to get better with time as the […]
Method 1: The best thing to do is just ask the client why they are putting tint on their windows. Is it for heat rejection, privacy, reduction of sun, or UV protection? Once you know what they want, give them the film that best suits their needs. The cost of different types of films is […]
Method 1: When there’s a defect that looks like uniform ripples, almost like if a stone lands in water, this is usually because of failed film or adhesive. This can happen quickly or over time. Lower quality film will begin to melt and fail if it sits in the sun for months or years on […]
Method 1: There are many things you can and should do to prevent contamination of your film. The first thing to consider is your environment. If you’re outside, debris can fly onto your glass. If you’re in a dusty environment, you will also be more prone to debris. In debris-prone environments, you have to be […]
Method 1: Film rolls should rest on soft surface shelves or racks so as to not put stress on them and cause creases or folds. You can glue foam to shelves, or for a more economical method, you can buy vertical closet racks and put them on your wall side to side, and then use […]
Method 1: First and foremost consider the legal restrictions in your state. Many people who drive high-end models prefer not to be seen, and darker tints on lower-end models can look a bit ‘tacky’ to many. Also, consider what you have to match the other windows to. Most high-end vehicles, and also many trucks and […]
Method 1: Loosen the film with a steamer and then scrape off with razor blade. Clean off any remaining debris with your window cleaner Method 2: If you don’t have a steamer, soak the glass in Windex or Ammonia and then cover with a black trash bag. Store the car somewhere hot or in […]
Method 1: Use a clay bar or clay mitt to strip everything off a surface except for the paint.
Option A.) Carry three different types: A budget type, a “standard” type,” and an expensive type. This will allow you to appeal to a range of different customers who have different priorities and budgets.
Option A.) Make sure it’s not overfilled with water. Option B.) Lay the nozzle on the ground, bend the chrome ring on the hose, and let the water drain and sputter for a few minutes. Option C.) Sometimes, you need to wait up to 25 minutes for the steamer to get hot. You […]
Answer A.) Certain films significantly reduce 5G radiation. Testing in Australia has determined that one type of film can handle frequencies of up to 10 GHz. Answer B.) The inherent properties of all metallic films help reduce 5G radiation. Answer C.). Testing has determined that some films can repel over 99% of frequencies […]
Option A.) Remove everything, including the spoiler, before tinting. It isn’t that time-consuming. If you’re looking for tips on how to remove the spoiler, there are plenty of helpful YouTube videos. Option B.) Install the film without removing the spoiler. Seam your film down on the defrost line underneath the spoiler. Option C.) […]
Although photographs are an excellent way to promote and advertise your services, certain lighting may not be ideal for “showing off” your finished window tinting jobs. For best results, simply photograph the car in the sunlight. Alternatively, some tinters claim that LED lighting helps cameras pick up the added layers of film more easily.