Method 1: There isn’t a concrete consensus on which is better, it just depends on preference. Baby shampoo contains glycerin, and dish detergent is higher in PH which can make a difference depending on which type of adhesive or film is being used.
Method 1: Soap stains can be avoided in the first place by proper rinsing techniques. But if you are still left with soap stains after a tint job, let it completely dry for at least a half-hour. Then spray it with water and dry it off with a microfiber towel.
Method 1: Graffiti or security film is usually tough enough to protect against animal claw. Depending on how sharp the animal’s claws are and how strong they are, you should be able to get at least two years out of the film without any visible marks.
Method 1: If you used the appropriate film for a dual-paned window, the thermal crack may not be your fault. Instead, the fractures may be because of a slight chip or nick in the glass that weakens it. Thermal fractures usually ‘meander’ through the glass in multiple directions. If the crack is in a straight […]
Method 1: If 1 or 2% VLT isn’t dark enough for you, for example on a garage with valuable things inside, there isn’t really any tint film that is completely impervious to some sort of light. Even on the darkest, most reflective tint, it’s still possible to look through the glass if someone really wants […]
Method 1: A lot of tinters will simply walk away from these jobs because of safety concerns. Once glass gets into the 80×100 range, it can be really dangerous to remove film from. It’s just not worth it. Advising that the glass be replaced completely is usually preferable to removing and replacing film. If […]
Method 1: Clients should be advised beforehand that these types of windows have their limitations. If the edge of a frame is very uneven, it’s not always possible to avoid light gaps. Generally speaking, the best approach is to cut around the putty’d edge first, and then scrape the glass all the way to […]
Method 1: If glass has a coating on it that gives it a slight hue underneath the film, it shouldn’t make a difference in tinting. However, if you have you retint it, this process can be tricky because it will be nearly impossible to remove the film and adhesive without damaging the coating as well. […]
Method 1: Tempered, single-paned windows aren’t as susceptible to heat as dual-paned windows, so you can ostensibly use any film that meets your needs. For simple heat rejection, a nice ceramic film with a low VLT percentage will keep the room cooler. Conversely, if you’re more concerned about light, then you can opt for a […]
Method 1: You’ll have to inspect the gaskets and then decide whether it’s worth it to try and pull them. Pulling the gaskets and then putting them back will result in better elimination of light gaps and will give you better-looking edges, but can also be risky if they are old and brittle. If the […]
Method 1: It is very difficult to find tint wider than 84 inches. If you ever have to use a piece that big, understand that there are much bigger risks in glass failure and overheating. Make sure you have the correct tint level. There isn’t always an obvious place to put your seam or […]
Method 1: The general ballpark that most tinters charge for removing old tint is somewhere between $2.00 and $3.00 depending on how old, dirty, and difficult it will be to remove. If you’re not significantly experienced in tint removal and can’t gauge it just by looking at it or feeling it, you can usually […]
Method 1: Precutting is a matter of debate. Some tinters think that you can’t achieve a professional level of quality when precutting compared to trimming on the window. Other tinters believe it’s possible with proper measuring and saves time. Other tinters are somewhere in the middle, and they will line up one or two factory […]
Method 1: In high elevation areas that experience a lot of wind, like a high-rise on a beach in a windy area, glass breaking under wind pressure is a risk. This can cause a lot of damage and is also obviously expensive. As a way to “anchor” glass in place, tint film can be reinforced […]
Method 1: Tinting skylights can either be a very lucrative business tactic or a very big time and money waster – depending on how you contract. Because of their exposure to the elements, skylight tint tends to have a much shorter lifespan than regular windows. This means that contractors need to adjust their warranties on […]
Method 1: The best tool for this job is a film handler. If you don’t have one, you can protect the film from dust by laying down a very clean tarp over top. Next, cut the film over a straight edge placed on top of the tarp. Method 2: For smaller jobs, it may […]
Method 1: Generally speaking, trying to tint over any non-smooth surface is a losing game. Even if you manage to pull it off, film with high heat absorption will ruin textured glass. There is one way around this: Instead of trying to tint the textured glass, add your own layer of cheap 1/8th glass directly […]
Method 1: If you can’t find anyone to help you install a big piece of dusted crystal, try hanging the film somewhere near the window you’re working on and strip the liner. Then fold it in half from the bottom to the top, making the film 50% smaller. By holding the piece by the top […]
Method 1: If you are tinting a glass door in a high traffic area such as an industrial warehouse, or a door that requires a lot of heavy equipment moving through, it is possible to minimize scratches if the customer requests it. Tint the glass as normal, and then you can go over it as […]
Method 1: For a freezer that will be in the sun, you can protect what’s inside by using a dark silver reflective film with anti-graffiti film on top. However, this won’t allow great visibility. Visibility may be important if it’s important to see what’s inside, such as a storefront freezer that showcases cakes or frozen […]
Method 1: It is possible that there was a film malfunction, or the wrong film was installed. If the window in question has film on it that absorbs more heat than the glass can handle, then it can shatter eventually. But if that were the case, then all panes would be broken, not just one. […]
Method 1: Storm windows are absolutely tintable and are compatible with the same tint films as non-storm windows. Tinting them is often easier than tinting regular windows because you don’t have to deal with dual pane safe film. Like other windows, tint storm windows on the interior.